Surfing
Once the ancient sport of Hawaiian kings, modern surfing became
synonymous with the slacker lifestyle. But it wasn’t laziness that
drove these surfers to a lifetime at the beach - they were searching
for the most elusive of human desires: bliss. The centre of the
surfing universe was Waikiki in Oahu, home of walking on water. 15th
century surfers in Hawaii were magic men, riding the waves and
challenging death at every turn. Surfing was an elite activity,
reserved only for shamen who could appease the water gods enough to
survive atop a plank of wood, riding the crest of a wave.
By the turn of the century, Hawaii’s sport became a tourist
attraction, and in 1907, Hawaiian surfer George Freeth was brought to
Redondo Beach, California, to demonstrate surfboard riding as a
publicity stunt. After his assignment, Freeth stayed in California,
hitting the waves as a surfing phenomena and a lifeguard. Surfing
would remain a selective sport for only the most diehard fans, but
then along came Gidget.
California debuted more than a perky blonde Sandra Dee when
Gidget hit the screens in 1959. The coastline and the crazy kids
flying on water got more attention than the bikini babes did, and
surfing set sail to become the phenomenon it is today. California
became the new home to surf fans, and gremmies (surf wannabes) hit the
waves for some fun in the sun. Gidget paved the way for all the
Frankie and Annette Beach Party movies of the 60’s, which would
turn surfing into a sensation. Overnight, the beaches were packed with
bikini babes and moondoggie clones all balancing precariously on a
wooden longboard.
Two California surfers, Dale Velzy and Hap Jacobs, started making
their own balsa boards, paving the way for surfing to become available
to everyone. Surfing had ridden a wave, and there was no wipe-out in
sight when the Beach Boys, Jan and Dean, and Dick Dale and the
Deltones rocked out with surf sounds.
The surfers embraced a laid-back lifestyle, but die-hards could
flash more than a little aggression when gremmies tried to ride waves
on a “Locals Only” beach. No signs were hung to indicate which beach
belonged to which group, but rest assured, if you infringed, you’d
find out soon enough. Surf fashion was also generally laid-back, but
some spots required a bit extra. Sure, when the water’s warm, a pair
of board shorts and bare skin is all you need, but when you’re surfing
in the icy waters of the North Bay California, that bare-bones outfit
just wouldn’t cut it. O’Neill and Body Glove were the first to make
neoprene wetsuits in the 50s, insulating the wearer from icy waters
and making surfing a whole lot easier. Now surfers could brave any
kind of water without turning into a human Popsicle.
In the beginning, surfwear was just an old pair of swimming trunks,
or a pair of cut-off jeans paired with a Hawaiian shirt or simple
cotton tee. Then came Hang Ten, the first board shorts made
specifically for the surfing lifestyle. Hang Ten shorts quickly
achieved mass market appeal, opening the fashion channels to the
growing subculture of surfers. Hang Ten expanded into fashion wear,
and then more labels came out: Op, Lightning Bolt and smaller
manufacturers like Jams made surf wear as well as casual clothes for a
24/7 style.
The 80s surf culture was so hot that companies coast to coast tried
to cash in with the next newest label: Gotcha, Quicksilver, Rude Dog,
T&C, PCH, Maui & Sons and countless others were vying for rack space
in their race to the shore. Vans made wildly-patterned surf shoes, and
Jams made even more outrageous long surf shorts. It didn’t matter if
you lived on the beach or were landlocked in Iowa, looking like a
surfer was radical.
Surf wear reflected the casual lifestyle of the surfers: flip-flops
were the only shoes in the closet (if any were worn at all); t-shirts
plastered with bold surf logo graphics were king for easy-on easy-off
comfort and elitist decoration; and board shorts were interminably
damp, fresh from the water. Sun-bleached hair was styled with a fresh
sea breeze, and the only coat that was ever worn was a slick layer of
suntan oil for a deep, rich tan.
Girls got into the surf action, borrowing their clothes from the
boys in the 80’s, when unisex surf tees, Jams shorts and Vans were the
surf uniform. But by 1990, surf wear was geared for girls as well. Now
more than observers, it was the girls who were keeping the sport
alive. Surf labels like Quicksilver and Gotcha produced Roxy and
Girlstar, respectively, made just for girls.
Although fashions change, time doesn’t, and surfers still seek the
ultimate bliss via a surfboard. Forget 9 to 5, the rat race, and
suburban white picket fences. From the start of the surfing obsession
for the next hundred years, kids sacrificed everything for the perfect
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